I had a company do the install and it almost seems like such a piss poor job. also noticed in both showers, a loud creaking in the master bath and a loud popping in the spare bath. took a first shower in it and on the window ledge, I set my shampoo bottle on it and the flex caused the acrylic to detach from the sealant that is on the edge. right where it attaches to the shower pan, in several spots, its almost like there is a dead air space behind the wall. in other places, when I push it, it has alof of flex. Is this normal? in some place, if I push the wall, it is hard. Now first thing I noticed is how flimsy the acrylic wall is. In the master bathroom, removed the same but had a acrylic base with center drain installed along with the acrylic walls and frameless doors. In the spare bathroom, removed the tile wall and tub and had a new acrylic tub and acrylic shower wall with frameless doors installed. Just had both my master bathroom and spare bathroom remodeled. Then after the cement board is up, paint it all with 2 coats of redguard. When you install your cement board, you will want to trim the window edge with cement board and fiber tape the perimeter (the entire corner) around the window. Then insulate under the sill and around the old jamb perimeter with window and door foam. You can then use long screws to fasten it down through the shims and into the RO. Then cut a couple angled 2x wedges and drive them under the sill to push it up tight to the top of the dado. Once it fits, slide it in, goop it up with construction adhesive so that air doesnt come around the dado. So you would cut a notch 4 x 4 7/8 out of one side. (Usually around 4 7/8") then measure the distance from the notch to the outer edge of the trim. measure the distance from the inside edge of the jamb to the outside of the blind stop. Then determine how much you need to notch out so that it fits between the jambs.īest way is to put a square in the dado. The length of the sill is determined on the outside by the outer edges of your trim. Rip it to the correct width (usually around 7") Get a nice clear 2x10, cut 12.5 degree bevels on each side (table saw) so that it is shaped like a parallelogram. This is usually done on a thickness planer. Once the grout is completely dry and dust free, seal the tile with a grout sealer according to manufacturer’s recommendations.You need to measure the dado in the jamb and make your new sill the same thickness. As the grout dries a powdery residue will form–gently wipe it away with a soft clean rag, being careful not to wipe out any of the grout. Then with a large damp sponge gently wipe away the grout that remains on the face of the tile. It’s best to hold the float at an angle and pass over the area firmly in a diagonal direction. Use a grout float (available at any hardware store) to press the grout into the joints of the tile lines. Back-buttering is pretty forgiving, so if you need to add or remove the adhesive to lift or lower the tile, pull the tile up and adjust as needed.Īllow the tiles to set according to the adhesive manufacturer’s drying time. Work at keeping them flush with one another. Use a construction adhesive suitable for tiles and a caulking gun to back-butter each tile, then press them into place. Because you have no rules to follow, you can spread the joints (to be grouted) as small or as wide as you like! You can outline pencil marks around the tiles to know where each one goes. Do a dry run first, laying out the tile in the design and spacing that fits.
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